Central Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
The Basics
Scientific Name: (Pogona vitticeps)
Origin: Central Australia
Lifestyle: Terrestrial
Habitat: Desert
Temperature: 25-35ºC (77-95ºF) with basking area of 38-42ºC (100-108ºF)
Relative Humidity: 30-40% (Requires humid area during shedding)
UV-B Light Required?: Yes (Mercury vapour for high output)
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Age of Maturity: 1-2 years
Adult Size: Approx. 13-24 inches in length
Diet: Vegetables and Invertebrate Prey (Omnivore)
Conservation Status: Not Evaluated
Origin: Central Australia
Lifestyle: Terrestrial
Habitat: Desert
Temperature: 25-35ºC (77-95ºF) with basking area of 38-42ºC (100-108ºF)
Relative Humidity: 30-40% (Requires humid area during shedding)
UV-B Light Required?: Yes (Mercury vapour for high output)
Lifespan: 8-12 years
Age of Maturity: 1-2 years
Adult Size: Approx. 13-24 inches in length
Diet: Vegetables and Invertebrate Prey (Omnivore)
Conservation Status: Not Evaluated
Introduction
Within the Bearded Dragon family (Pagona) there are eight separate species, the most common of which is Pogona vitticeps, known as the Central (or inland) Bearded Dragon. This species has gained popularity in the pet trade due to their good temperaments, curious nature and intriguing appearance. They are a medium sized lizard, generally attaining an adult size of 13 to 24 inches from head to tail with a lifespan of approximately 10 years if well cared for. Most Bearded Dragons often have a banded pattern as juveniles, which becomes less prominent with maturity. Their coloration is usually tan to yellow (although selective breeding has produced an array of colours and patterns in captive Bearded Dragons) and their appearance is fairly distinct; they have triangular shaped heads and well-muscled flat bodies with a row of spikes running down each side.
They acquired their name "Bearded" from their ability to flare out the skin of their throats when threatened or as part of a territorial display, often accompanied with an open mouthed threat.
Natural History
Bearded Dragons are found in arid, rocky, semi-desert regions and arid open woodlands of Central Australia. They are generally a terrestrial species, spending much of their time on the ground, basking on rocks or tree stumps but are also adept climbers and will spend time on branches and in bushes too. They are a diurnal species, preferring to be active during the day and primarily bask during the morning and afternoon but will retreat to an underground burrow to escape the hottest part of the day. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous and in the wild will eat a variety of insects, fruits, flowers, and other plant matter as well as small lizards and mammals on occasion.
They acquired their name "Bearded" from their ability to flare out the skin of their throats when threatened or as part of a territorial display, often accompanied with an open mouthed threat.
Natural History
Bearded Dragons are found in arid, rocky, semi-desert regions and arid open woodlands of Central Australia. They are generally a terrestrial species, spending much of their time on the ground, basking on rocks or tree stumps but are also adept climbers and will spend time on branches and in bushes too. They are a diurnal species, preferring to be active during the day and primarily bask during the morning and afternoon but will retreat to an underground burrow to escape the hottest part of the day. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous and in the wild will eat a variety of insects, fruits, flowers, and other plant matter as well as small lizards and mammals on occasion.
Image sourced from outbackspirittours.com.au
Choosing A Bearded Dragon
Key Considerations:
- Does not have any injuries or deformities
- Must be a good weight
- Exhibits natural and alert behaviours
- No sign of parasitic infestations
- Is not overly stressed
- Ideally purchased from a reputable breeder or rescue shelter
As you would when selecting any animal, you want to be sure that you are choosing a healthy Bearded Dragon. You will want an animal of good weight, no cuts or abrasions to the skin, alert and no signs of external parasites.
It is often recommended to purchase your Beardie from a breeder rather than a pet shop for various reasons. Some of these reasons include access to accurate information regarding the history of the animal and peace of mind that the animal has been reared by a competent keeper. Information regarding its genetics, feedings, sheds, temperament, and any other information that the breeder may have can be provided, a pet store may not note such information with so many animals to care for.
- Does not have any injuries or deformities
- Must be a good weight
- Exhibits natural and alert behaviours
- No sign of parasitic infestations
- Is not overly stressed
- Ideally purchased from a reputable breeder or rescue shelter
As you would when selecting any animal, you want to be sure that you are choosing a healthy Bearded Dragon. You will want an animal of good weight, no cuts or abrasions to the skin, alert and no signs of external parasites.
It is often recommended to purchase your Beardie from a breeder rather than a pet shop for various reasons. Some of these reasons include access to accurate information regarding the history of the animal and peace of mind that the animal has been reared by a competent keeper. Information regarding its genetics, feedings, sheds, temperament, and any other information that the breeder may have can be provided, a pet store may not note such information with so many animals to care for.
Settling In
It is good practice to leave your Brarded Dragon a minimum of around 24-48 hours before handling them during the settling in period. Moving into a completely unfamiliar environment can be quite stressful for the animal and it may threat-display or run away in fright if disturbed. Small hatchlings are particularly affected by a move as they are very shy and easily stressed at such a young age. Young Beardies are also particularly prone to feeding issues and may refuse to eat during this time as they may be too overwhelmed and stressed by the move. If the animal appears settled after several days, some gentle handling is acceptable, but it is best to keep this to a minimum until the animal has fully settled. The settling in period can last up to two or three weeks depending on the individual animal (some are less shy and more adventurous than others). During this time, the Beardie should only be disturbed to change its water or for its enclosure to be cleaned out. Handling sessions should be started with brief periods of handling so not to cause too much stress. Handling time can gradually be increased over time as the reptile-keeper bond is better established.
Husbandry
Housing
Image sourced from youtube - kaldaka87
Bearded Dragons can be kept in appropriately sized vivarium or aquarium type enclosures, preferably with a mesh top (or partly meshed) to promote good air circulation and maintain appropriately low humidity levels, while also being able to retain heat. Beardies’ are a modest sized and reasonably active lizard, and as such require a suitably large enclosure. A larger enclosure will also facilitate an appropriate thermal gradient from one end of the enclosure to the other. Enclosures should be long rather than tall as Beardies are terrestrial animals, requiring more floor space.
Recommendations for enclosure size can vary, for instance, hatchlings may do fine in a 20 gallon long aquarium (30”x13”x13”) (LxWxH) but fully grown adults require much more space, nearer 75 gallon (48”x19”x22”) or even go as large as 120 gallon (48”x24”x24”) (as demonstrated in the image above). A larger enclosure is especially important when housing multiple animals together as Beardies are territorial creatures, particularly males, and will compete for space. When there is inadequate room, in-fighting often results, leading to stress and injury. Bearded Dragons are generally solitary animals so can be housed individually; this would eliminate the risk of injury through fighting or females being over-bred.
Recommendations for enclosure size can vary, for instance, hatchlings may do fine in a 20 gallon long aquarium (30”x13”x13”) (LxWxH) but fully grown adults require much more space, nearer 75 gallon (48”x19”x22”) or even go as large as 120 gallon (48”x24”x24”) (as demonstrated in the image above). A larger enclosure is especially important when housing multiple animals together as Beardies are territorial creatures, particularly males, and will compete for space. When there is inadequate room, in-fighting often results, leading to stress and injury. Bearded Dragons are generally solitary animals so can be housed individually; this would eliminate the risk of injury through fighting or females being over-bred.
Hides and Furnishings
Key Considerations:
- Furnishings must be appropriate, i.e. facilitates the animals natural behaviours (climbing, hiding, etc)
- Must have adequate number of hides (absolute minimum of two, more would be preferable)
- Hides must be of adequate size (Beardie able to comfortably enter and exit)
- Hides positioned strategically (at least one on warm end and other on cool end of enclosure)
- Furnishings must not pose a danger (i.e. nothing the Beardie could be injured by)
- Anything sourced from outside must be disinfected first
The Bearded Dragons set-up can mimic that of a desert, with the incorporation of rocks, caves, logs and faux plants, allowing the Beardie opportunities to hide, explore, climb and exercise. Anything introduced into the enclosure from outside, such as rocks or branches will need to be thoroughly disinfected before being introduced into the Beardies’ enclosure. Reptile hammocks or ledges can also be placed within the enclosure to encourage exercise and make better use of the enclosures space for enrichment. Branches and logs can be placed strategically to allow the Bearded Dragon to climb up towards basking areas, making sure that these furnishings are placed securely and are unlikely to move and cause the animal to fall or injure itself.
Hides are a necessity for the animals’ psychological security and should be placed strategically within the enclosure (at least one on the warm side of the enclosure and one on the cool side, plus one near the basking area), although more hides may be provided if there is space. This placement allows the Beardie to regulate its body temperature while still remaining hidden and secure. A moist hide is needed when the Beardie is due to shed to help soften and remove the old skin. The relative humidity of the enclosure can also be increased during this time to ensure a successful shed.
- Furnishings must be appropriate, i.e. facilitates the animals natural behaviours (climbing, hiding, etc)
- Must have adequate number of hides (absolute minimum of two, more would be preferable)
- Hides must be of adequate size (Beardie able to comfortably enter and exit)
- Hides positioned strategically (at least one on warm end and other on cool end of enclosure)
- Furnishings must not pose a danger (i.e. nothing the Beardie could be injured by)
- Anything sourced from outside must be disinfected first
The Bearded Dragons set-up can mimic that of a desert, with the incorporation of rocks, caves, logs and faux plants, allowing the Beardie opportunities to hide, explore, climb and exercise. Anything introduced into the enclosure from outside, such as rocks or branches will need to be thoroughly disinfected before being introduced into the Beardies’ enclosure. Reptile hammocks or ledges can also be placed within the enclosure to encourage exercise and make better use of the enclosures space for enrichment. Branches and logs can be placed strategically to allow the Bearded Dragon to climb up towards basking areas, making sure that these furnishings are placed securely and are unlikely to move and cause the animal to fall or injure itself.
Hides are a necessity for the animals’ psychological security and should be placed strategically within the enclosure (at least one on the warm side of the enclosure and one on the cool side, plus one near the basking area), although more hides may be provided if there is space. This placement allows the Beardie to regulate its body temperature while still remaining hidden and secure. A moist hide is needed when the Beardie is due to shed to help soften and remove the old skin. The relative humidity of the enclosure can also be increased during this time to ensure a successful shed.
Heating and Lighting
Key Considerations:
- Heat lamp is required, accompanied by a full spectrum UV-B bulb
- Heat lamp to be positioned to one side of the enclosure to establish a gradient
- UV-B bulb should be positioned close to heat source
- Must be controlled by thermostat and monitored by digital thermometer
- Heating output may need adjusting according to season
Bearded Dragons are heliotherms, meaning they gain heat directly from the sun. This is mimicked in captivity by the use of basking spot lamps. The basking spot can be created by positioning the lamp to one side of the enclosure over an elevated surface such as a ledge or branch. The lamp needs to be positioned between 6-8 inches from the basking spot, and controlled by a thermostat with a digital thermometer used to monitor the temperatures and make adjustments when required. The heat-sensing probe should be positioned and secured close to the hot spot.
Bearded Dragons are from very hot, semi-desert environments and as such require reasonably high temperatures. The gradient required for Bearded Dragons is 25-35˚C (77-95˚F) (cool end to warm end respectively), with basking area of around 38-42˚C (100-108˚F). Night-time temperatures can be allowed to drop but ideally shouldn’t go bellow the mid-70’s (21˚C). If night-time temperatures cannot be maintained above the 70's then a Under-Tank Heater (UTH) will be required to provide additional heat during the night. This UTH can be positioned in a cave or under a log, and should not be longer than 1/4 size of enclosure. Alternatively, night bulbs can be installed to provide heat throughout the night while producing little visible light. Like with other heating equipment this light would need to be hooked up to a thermostat.
A thermometer is necessary for checking that the temperatures are safe and correct. Dial-type thermometers are not recommended as they often yield an inaccurate reading and registers the temperature of the air rather than the temperature of the basking spot. A digital thermometer is preferred as the probe can specifically determine surface temperature, allowing you to make corrections to the basking area. A thermostat will keep the temperature constant and allow you make easy adjustments. Three thermometers are ideally used in a reptile enclosure, one for the cool side, one for the warm side and one for the basking spot. An infrared thermometer laser can also be useful for quick checks of various points in the enclosure to assess the temperature gradient, and decide if adjustments are required. Ideally you'll want to conduct these checks every 2 weeks.
Lamps should be switched off during the night, preferably to coincide with natural sunlight, so a day/night light cycle can be established. Often the importance of a proper light cycle is not fully appreciated resulting in loss of appetite from the animal. The wattage of the bulb is dependent on the size of the enclosure, larger enclosures will need a higher wattage bulb than smaller enclosures. It may take a little experimenting with different bulb wattages to find the one that works best for your enclosure.
If a lamp is placed inside the enclosure it must have a guard positioned over it to prevent the lizard from coming into contact with the hot bulb. A dimming thermostat can be used to control the heat bulb or a pulse thermostat with a ceramic bulb. A pulse thermostat should not be used for non-ceramic heating lights as this thermostat will likely blow the bulbs.
UV Lighting
UV-B lighting is essential for vitamin D3 production. The principal function of vitamin D3 is to increase calcium absorption from the intestine, thereby preventing calcium deficiency and maintaining strong and healthy bones and muscles. The process is temperature dependant so it is important to position the source of UV and heat close together. The optimal wavelength produced by a UV-B bulb is between 290 to 305nm (nanometers) for the synthesis of D3. UV emissions below 280 would produce dangerous UV-C, which is linked to cellular damage and cancer. UV-A ranges between 320nm - 400nm, this wavelength is invisible to humans but above 350nm is very visible to reptiles and stimulates agonistic (social) behaviours, as well as feeding and basking and promotes general well-being. The wavelength can be tested with a UV-B Meter.
As the UV bulb ages, it will produce less UV-B as time goes by, this is why it is important to replace UV-B bulbs regularly, ideally every 6 months to maintain optimum levels of UV-B in the animals environment.
One last consideration to make concerning the heating of your reptiles enclosure is the positioning of the enclosure itself. Glass cages must not be placed opposite a window as heat from sunlight will be trapped by the glass and can easily cause the enclosure to overheat.
More on Heating and Lighting
- Heat lamp is required, accompanied by a full spectrum UV-B bulb
- Heat lamp to be positioned to one side of the enclosure to establish a gradient
- UV-B bulb should be positioned close to heat source
- Must be controlled by thermostat and monitored by digital thermometer
- Heating output may need adjusting according to season
Bearded Dragons are heliotherms, meaning they gain heat directly from the sun. This is mimicked in captivity by the use of basking spot lamps. The basking spot can be created by positioning the lamp to one side of the enclosure over an elevated surface such as a ledge or branch. The lamp needs to be positioned between 6-8 inches from the basking spot, and controlled by a thermostat with a digital thermometer used to monitor the temperatures and make adjustments when required. The heat-sensing probe should be positioned and secured close to the hot spot.
Bearded Dragons are from very hot, semi-desert environments and as such require reasonably high temperatures. The gradient required for Bearded Dragons is 25-35˚C (77-95˚F) (cool end to warm end respectively), with basking area of around 38-42˚C (100-108˚F). Night-time temperatures can be allowed to drop but ideally shouldn’t go bellow the mid-70’s (21˚C). If night-time temperatures cannot be maintained above the 70's then a Under-Tank Heater (UTH) will be required to provide additional heat during the night. This UTH can be positioned in a cave or under a log, and should not be longer than 1/4 size of enclosure. Alternatively, night bulbs can be installed to provide heat throughout the night while producing little visible light. Like with other heating equipment this light would need to be hooked up to a thermostat.
A thermometer is necessary for checking that the temperatures are safe and correct. Dial-type thermometers are not recommended as they often yield an inaccurate reading and registers the temperature of the air rather than the temperature of the basking spot. A digital thermometer is preferred as the probe can specifically determine surface temperature, allowing you to make corrections to the basking area. A thermostat will keep the temperature constant and allow you make easy adjustments. Three thermometers are ideally used in a reptile enclosure, one for the cool side, one for the warm side and one for the basking spot. An infrared thermometer laser can also be useful for quick checks of various points in the enclosure to assess the temperature gradient, and decide if adjustments are required. Ideally you'll want to conduct these checks every 2 weeks.
Lamps should be switched off during the night, preferably to coincide with natural sunlight, so a day/night light cycle can be established. Often the importance of a proper light cycle is not fully appreciated resulting in loss of appetite from the animal. The wattage of the bulb is dependent on the size of the enclosure, larger enclosures will need a higher wattage bulb than smaller enclosures. It may take a little experimenting with different bulb wattages to find the one that works best for your enclosure.
If a lamp is placed inside the enclosure it must have a guard positioned over it to prevent the lizard from coming into contact with the hot bulb. A dimming thermostat can be used to control the heat bulb or a pulse thermostat with a ceramic bulb. A pulse thermostat should not be used for non-ceramic heating lights as this thermostat will likely blow the bulbs.
UV Lighting
UV-B lighting is essential for vitamin D3 production. The principal function of vitamin D3 is to increase calcium absorption from the intestine, thereby preventing calcium deficiency and maintaining strong and healthy bones and muscles. The process is temperature dependant so it is important to position the source of UV and heat close together. The optimal wavelength produced by a UV-B bulb is between 290 to 305nm (nanometers) for the synthesis of D3. UV emissions below 280 would produce dangerous UV-C, which is linked to cellular damage and cancer. UV-A ranges between 320nm - 400nm, this wavelength is invisible to humans but above 350nm is very visible to reptiles and stimulates agonistic (social) behaviours, as well as feeding and basking and promotes general well-being. The wavelength can be tested with a UV-B Meter.
As the UV bulb ages, it will produce less UV-B as time goes by, this is why it is important to replace UV-B bulbs regularly, ideally every 6 months to maintain optimum levels of UV-B in the animals environment.
One last consideration to make concerning the heating of your reptiles enclosure is the positioning of the enclosure itself. Glass cages must not be placed opposite a window as heat from sunlight will be trapped by the glass and can easily cause the enclosure to overheat.
More on Heating and Lighting
Substrate
There is some debate amongst owners concerning which is the best substrate to use for Bearded Dragons. It is often recommended to avoid loose substrate such as sand, wood chips (sani-chips), pebbles, etc, as bearded dragons can ingest these substrates and induce impaction. Impaction can be very serious, leading to rupturing of the intestinal wall in serious cases so the risk is best avoided, this is especially true for young animals with smaller digestive systems that are more susceptible to blockages. It is therefore recommended that you use the safer choices such as paper towel, ceramic tile, slate, reptile carpet, astroturf, linoleum or other floor tiles, indoor/outdoor carpet, newspaper, or butcher paper. These choices tend to not only be safer, but also easier to clean, easier to identify the presence of parasites and generally cheaper. Reusable substrates such as carpeting or astroturf must be left to dry thoroughly after washing before being used again. Two pieces on hand can be rotated between cleans. You may also wish to make your own flooring using the methods demonstrated here.
Dangerous and toxic substrates include cedar shavings, gravel, crushed corn or walnut cob, kitty litter, wood shavings, alfalfa pellets, or potting soil that contains vermiculite, pesticides, fertilizer, wetting agents, should be avoided.
Often sand is recommended based on the native environment of the Bearded Dragon. However, the natural landscape is compacted and hard-baked with only a fine sprinkling of loose sand, which is far different from a flooring full of loose material as provided by some in captivity. Sand is therefore not a naturalistic substrate and despite some brands claiming to be 'safe', impaction has resulted with all brands of sand.
Dangerous and toxic substrates include cedar shavings, gravel, crushed corn or walnut cob, kitty litter, wood shavings, alfalfa pellets, or potting soil that contains vermiculite, pesticides, fertilizer, wetting agents, should be avoided.
Often sand is recommended based on the native environment of the Bearded Dragon. However, the natural landscape is compacted and hard-baked with only a fine sprinkling of loose sand, which is far different from a flooring full of loose material as provided by some in captivity. Sand is therefore not a naturalistic substrate and despite some brands claiming to be 'safe', impaction has resulted with all brands of sand.
Cleaning
Enclosures require routine spot-cleans to remove waste as soon as possible, particularly with the metabolically active Bearded Dragons who will mess fairly frequently. Paper towel can be used to remove the waste matter, or if using paper towel or newspaper as a substrate, this can be replaced completely. Any furnishings which may have been dirtied must be cleaned too. A full clean and disinfect can be carried out every month to prevent the growth of any mold or bacteria. During the full clean-out all the furnishings and hides must be disinfected too, along with the enclosure itself. Reptile friendly disinfectants are available, including F10 disinfectant. Alternatively, warm water and soap can be used but would not be as an effective cleaner against bacteria and other germs as dedicated disinfectants. Make sure that everything is dry before being replaced inside the enclosure again to prevent bacteria or mould growth.
Feeding
Key Considerations:
- Omnivorous (requiring a variety of insects and vegetables:- locusts, mealworms, crickets, greens, squash, etc)
- Insects must be of appropriate size (particularly important for juveniles)
- Nutritional supplements are necessary (multivitamin powder/ calcium/ vitamin D3)
- Juveniles fed more frequently than adults (2-3 times daily), adults fed daily, gravid females fed more frequently
The feeding requirements of the Bearded Dragon is dependent on the age of the animal. For instance, adult Bearded Dragons are omnivorous and therefore require a varied and balanced diet of insects (approx. 20-30% of diet) and vegetable matter (approx. 80-70% of diet). Hatchlings are mostly carnivorous, requiring the extra protein for growth, so will need a diet consisting of mostly small insects (incorporating approx. 60-80% of diet) and juveniles fed a 50/50 mix of insects and vegetables. Younger animals also require feeding more regularly than their adult counterparts (2-3 meals a day compared to single meals for adults).
A varied diet is necessary, not only to make meal times more stimulating but to also increase nutritional gain as different food items have different nutritional values. As a rule of thumb it is advised that the size of the insect should be no longer that the length, and less than half the width of the lizards head, this is because feeding insects too large can cause impaction. This is especially true for young animals which should only be fed small insects, as feeding insects too large can cause not only gut impaction but also partial paralysis, seizures, ataxia (loss of motor control), inability to self-feed, and in extreme cases, death. Start with feeding pinhead crickets and tiny, freshly molted mealworms, before moving gradually up to larger sized insects. Older Dragons may also appreciate the occasional day-old pinkie mouse.
It is not uncommon for young Dragons to refuse their greens as they age when they're more familiar to an insect based diet, for this reason it is important to offer fruits and vegetables at a young age to get them accustomed to eating these foods.
To increase the nutritional value of the feeder insects, they should be gut-loaded 24-48 hours before being offered. Gut-loading also extends the life of the feeders. To gut-load an insect you can feed it various food items including carrot, apple, dark leafy greens (e.g. spring/collard greens, mustard greens, kale), squash, bran, oats and various other foods that would benefit your Dragon. A general list of foods suitable for gut-loading can be seen here. Commercial gut-loading products are also available, but remember that what goes into the insect is ultimately fed to your pet.
Not only is gut-loading used for nutritional enrichment, correct supplementation is also very important. There are multivitamin mixes available designed specifically to meet the nutritional requirements of Bearded Dragons, as well as calcium supplements. A reptile's calcium to phosphorus intake ratio is often quoted to be 2:1 respectively, these two minerals work together in the body to maintain strong bones as well as having other important functions. Unfortunately insects are naturally deficient in calcium, necessitating the need to provide the Dragon with an alternative source of this important mineral.
Depending on how sufficient your lighting is, pure Calcium or Calcium with D3 can be used for dusting the insects. Much of the animals' required D3 will be obtained from UV-B lighting and is essential for the absorption of calcium from the gut. Calcium with D3 may not be necessary when sufficient UV-B lighting is provided, meaning pure Calcium carbonate can be used instead. The advantage of this being that you don't have to worry about accidentally overdosing the animal with vitamin D3 and can safely dust the Dragons food more regularly (dust 2-3 feeds a week as opposed to once weekly with D3; or for juveniles, dust one meal a day). Insects will also require dusting with a multivitamin powder on a separate day from when you dust with calcium once a week (twice a week for juveniles). Do be aware that it is possible to over-supplement, which can be just as dangerous as a deficiency, which is why dusting every meal is not necessary.
Allow your Bearded Dragon to eat its fill of insects in a 15-20 minute feeding session. These insects can be offered in a feeding dish and any uneaten insects should be removed. To dust the insects you can place a small amount of powder in a plastic bag with the insects, then shake the bag until the insects are coated in the powder.
It is important that you do not leave live food in with your reptile unattended - insects have been observed biting and feeding off of the reptile and have also been documented perching on the preorbital area and ‘drinking’ fluid from the reptiles eye causing conjunctival or corneal irritation. Loose insects may also ingest the reptiles faeces and any infections it may harbour (bacterial, fungal or parasitic) which the Beardie may ingest in turn.
Vegetables and fruits can be shredded or diced as appropriate and offered in a feeding dish before serving the insects. Most fruits are high in natural sugars, and can cause weight issues in large quantities so should make up only a small proportion of your pets overall diet.
Below is a quick list of food items for your Bearded Dragon;-
- Omnivorous (requiring a variety of insects and vegetables:- locusts, mealworms, crickets, greens, squash, etc)
- Insects must be of appropriate size (particularly important for juveniles)
- Nutritional supplements are necessary (multivitamin powder/ calcium/ vitamin D3)
- Juveniles fed more frequently than adults (2-3 times daily), adults fed daily, gravid females fed more frequently
The feeding requirements of the Bearded Dragon is dependent on the age of the animal. For instance, adult Bearded Dragons are omnivorous and therefore require a varied and balanced diet of insects (approx. 20-30% of diet) and vegetable matter (approx. 80-70% of diet). Hatchlings are mostly carnivorous, requiring the extra protein for growth, so will need a diet consisting of mostly small insects (incorporating approx. 60-80% of diet) and juveniles fed a 50/50 mix of insects and vegetables. Younger animals also require feeding more regularly than their adult counterparts (2-3 meals a day compared to single meals for adults).
A varied diet is necessary, not only to make meal times more stimulating but to also increase nutritional gain as different food items have different nutritional values. As a rule of thumb it is advised that the size of the insect should be no longer that the length, and less than half the width of the lizards head, this is because feeding insects too large can cause impaction. This is especially true for young animals which should only be fed small insects, as feeding insects too large can cause not only gut impaction but also partial paralysis, seizures, ataxia (loss of motor control), inability to self-feed, and in extreme cases, death. Start with feeding pinhead crickets and tiny, freshly molted mealworms, before moving gradually up to larger sized insects. Older Dragons may also appreciate the occasional day-old pinkie mouse.
It is not uncommon for young Dragons to refuse their greens as they age when they're more familiar to an insect based diet, for this reason it is important to offer fruits and vegetables at a young age to get them accustomed to eating these foods.
To increase the nutritional value of the feeder insects, they should be gut-loaded 24-48 hours before being offered. Gut-loading also extends the life of the feeders. To gut-load an insect you can feed it various food items including carrot, apple, dark leafy greens (e.g. spring/collard greens, mustard greens, kale), squash, bran, oats and various other foods that would benefit your Dragon. A general list of foods suitable for gut-loading can be seen here. Commercial gut-loading products are also available, but remember that what goes into the insect is ultimately fed to your pet.
Not only is gut-loading used for nutritional enrichment, correct supplementation is also very important. There are multivitamin mixes available designed specifically to meet the nutritional requirements of Bearded Dragons, as well as calcium supplements. A reptile's calcium to phosphorus intake ratio is often quoted to be 2:1 respectively, these two minerals work together in the body to maintain strong bones as well as having other important functions. Unfortunately insects are naturally deficient in calcium, necessitating the need to provide the Dragon with an alternative source of this important mineral.
Depending on how sufficient your lighting is, pure Calcium or Calcium with D3 can be used for dusting the insects. Much of the animals' required D3 will be obtained from UV-B lighting and is essential for the absorption of calcium from the gut. Calcium with D3 may not be necessary when sufficient UV-B lighting is provided, meaning pure Calcium carbonate can be used instead. The advantage of this being that you don't have to worry about accidentally overdosing the animal with vitamin D3 and can safely dust the Dragons food more regularly (dust 2-3 feeds a week as opposed to once weekly with D3; or for juveniles, dust one meal a day). Insects will also require dusting with a multivitamin powder on a separate day from when you dust with calcium once a week (twice a week for juveniles). Do be aware that it is possible to over-supplement, which can be just as dangerous as a deficiency, which is why dusting every meal is not necessary.
Allow your Bearded Dragon to eat its fill of insects in a 15-20 minute feeding session. These insects can be offered in a feeding dish and any uneaten insects should be removed. To dust the insects you can place a small amount of powder in a plastic bag with the insects, then shake the bag until the insects are coated in the powder.
It is important that you do not leave live food in with your reptile unattended - insects have been observed biting and feeding off of the reptile and have also been documented perching on the preorbital area and ‘drinking’ fluid from the reptiles eye causing conjunctival or corneal irritation. Loose insects may also ingest the reptiles faeces and any infections it may harbour (bacterial, fungal or parasitic) which the Beardie may ingest in turn.
Vegetables and fruits can be shredded or diced as appropriate and offered in a feeding dish before serving the insects. Most fruits are high in natural sugars, and can cause weight issues in large quantities so should make up only a small proportion of your pets overall diet.
Below is a quick list of food items for your Bearded Dragon;-
Insects
- Locust
- Mealworm - Cricket - Cockroach - Phoenix Worm - Horn Worm - Silk Worm - Butter Worm - Earthworm - Red Worm |
Vegetables and Other
- Squash (Butternut, Acorn, Hubbard, Kabocha, etc)
- Collard/Spring Greens - Chicory Greens (Escarole) - Mustard Greens - Turnip Greens - Endive - Green Beans (Snap Beans) - Courgette (Zucchini) - Okra - Carrot - Bell Pepper - Kale - Pak Choi (Bok Choy/ Chinese Cabbage) |
Fruits
- Cactus Pear (Prickly Pear)
- Papaya - Apple - Blackberries - Blueberries - Cherries - Cranberries - Figs - Grapes - Peaches - Mango - Watermelon - Strawberry |
Be aware that there are some foods that should only be fed in strict moderation or entirely avoided. Such foods include those that are high in anti-nutritional compounds (e.g. oxalates that bind to calcium, thereby preventing the body from absorbing it, inducing a calcium deficiency in extreme cases), foods that are largely composed of water and offer little nutrition (If fed in large enough quantities can induce malnutrition), foods excessively high in sugars or fats
and foods considered potentially toxic to reptiles, including wild caught insects.
and foods considered potentially toxic to reptiles, including wild caught insects.
Water
Your Bearded Dragon will receive much of its moisture from the food it eats, but even so, a dish of clean drinking water must be provided at all times. If left too long the water can stagnate and encourage bacterial growth. Furthermore, the dish will need to be properly disinfected at least once a week. It is good practice to provide hatchlings and young lizards with bottled water, as tap water contains elements that may cause gastric issues with young animals. The water must be placed on the cool end of the enclosure away from the heat source. Insects may get stuck inside the water dish and drown, the lizard may also foul inside the dish, contaminating the water. In this case the water will need changing immediately and the dish properly cleaned.
Handling
A Bearded Dragon can be picked up by placing the hand under the lizard’s abdomen and gently scooping it up. Bearded Dragons tend to respond well to handling but may struggle if they are not adequately supported, held too firmly or don’t feel comfortable with being handled. The Dragon should be allowed to rest on the palm or your hand without being restrained. The main concerns with handling is dropping the animal from a height, causing injury through mishandling or losing the animal. Risks should be minimised by handling in a safe area, proving the animal with proper support and judging when to place the Dragon back in its enclosure if it seems to have had enough handling.
Handling can be beneficial in a few ways, for instance, it can help improve the bond between reptile and keeper, as well as encourage exercise and exploration for the inquisitive animal.
Hands should be washed before and after every handling session to reduce the risk of disease being spread to or from your pet
Handling can be beneficial in a few ways, for instance, it can help improve the bond between reptile and keeper, as well as encourage exercise and exploration for the inquisitive animal.
Hands should be washed before and after every handling session to reduce the risk of disease being spread to or from your pet
Shedding
Bearded Dragons need to shed their skin as they grow while the old skin becomes tight and worn, a process also known as sloughing. Young Beardies will shed much more frequently than their older counterparts as older Dragons do not go through growth spurts like hatchlings and juveniles do. Bearded Dragons may shed their skin every 3 to 6 weeks depending on their age, and will eat the old skin. They do this to extract any nutrients they can, and as an instinctive anti-predatory measure, so not to make predators aware of their location.
You can identify when a Bearded Dragon is due to shed by its dulled milky colouring as a result of the old skin separating from the new skin underneath. Usually Dragons don't need any help with shedding, so long as proper husbandry practices are followed. Shedding issues are commonly caused by not providing the Dragon with a humid hide. The ambient air is usually relatively dry in a Bearded Dragon set-up meaning a humid hide is essential to allow the Dragon to access a humid environment to make the shedding process easier. The humid hide can be as simple as a small plastic container with a hole cut into it or a store bought reptile cave. Peat moss, cypress mulch, sphagnum moss or simply damp paper towel can be used as the bedding in the humid hide. The substrate should be moist but not soaking wet.
If the Dragon fails to fully shed, the old skin must be removed manually. You may do this by using a damp cotton bud to gently rub the remaining skin off or bathing the Dragon in a shallow bath of luke-warm water for 5-10 minutes. Retained shed may damage the underlying healthy skin by trapping and encouraging the growth of bacteria or may pinch at toes or the tail tip, cutting off circulation and causing death to the aforementioned areas, resulting in these body parts to drop off.
You can identify when a Bearded Dragon is due to shed by its dulled milky colouring as a result of the old skin separating from the new skin underneath. Usually Dragons don't need any help with shedding, so long as proper husbandry practices are followed. Shedding issues are commonly caused by not providing the Dragon with a humid hide. The ambient air is usually relatively dry in a Bearded Dragon set-up meaning a humid hide is essential to allow the Dragon to access a humid environment to make the shedding process easier. The humid hide can be as simple as a small plastic container with a hole cut into it or a store bought reptile cave. Peat moss, cypress mulch, sphagnum moss or simply damp paper towel can be used as the bedding in the humid hide. The substrate should be moist but not soaking wet.
If the Dragon fails to fully shed, the old skin must be removed manually. You may do this by using a damp cotton bud to gently rub the remaining skin off or bathing the Dragon in a shallow bath of luke-warm water for 5-10 minutes. Retained shed may damage the underlying healthy skin by trapping and encouraging the growth of bacteria or may pinch at toes or the tail tip, cutting off circulation and causing death to the aforementioned areas, resulting in these body parts to drop off.
Bearded Dragon image sourced from listsforall.com
©2014 Cat Read
©2014 Cat Read